- Wire Mesh Fence
- Wire Mesh Fence
- Fence Gate
- Double Wire Fence
- Double Wire Fence
- 358 Security Fence
- Security Fence
- Aluminum Formwork
- Aluminum Formwork
- Fence Accessory
- Post Caps
- Clips for Post
- Temporary Fence
- Hot-dipped Galvanized Temporary Fence
- PVC Coated Temporay Fence
- Temporary Plastic Fence Feet
- Crowd Control Barrier
- Crowd Control Barrier
- Chain Link Fence
- Chain Link Fence
- Hexagonal Wire Netting
- Hexagonal Mesh Fence
- Gabion Mesh
- Barbed Razor Wire
- Razor Wire
- Barbed Wire
- Other Wire Mesh
- Welded Wire Mesh
- Palisade Fence
- Stainless Steel Wire Mesh
- Steel Grating
- Field Fence
- Decorative Iron Fence
- Holland Wire Mesh
1.How to Stretch a Welded Wire Fence?
For effectiveness and a professionally-constructed appearance, wire infill must be installed on the fence so it is level and taut. Special tools are available for this purpose, but may be an unnecessary expense for the non-professional fence builder. Constructing a homemade wire-stretching tool is a quick and inexpensive project that will simplify the job of hanging a wire fence. To use the tool, your assistant attaches the infill material to the fence post as you apply traction to the wire. No special tools or advanced carpentry skills are needed for this project.
Measure the width of the infill wire. Measure and cut a 2-by-4-inch plank, about two-thirds the width of the fencing infill wire. Precise measurement is not necessary. With the cut plank on a flat surface so its 2-inch surfaces are horizontal, use a pencil and yardstick to draw a line down the center of the plank, from end to end. Mark the line with dots, about 6 inches apart.
Drill pilot holes into the plank at each mark on the line, using a drill bit that is slightly smaller in diameter than the threaded shanks of the screw hooks.
Insert the threaded shanks of the screw hooks into the pilot holes. Tighten each hook by turning clockwise until the curved portions of the hooks meet the surface of the plank.
Attach Infill Material
Stand the rolled fencing wire against the first post so it can be unwound and attached to consecutive fence posts. Attach the wire infill material to the first post by positioning poultry staples diagonally across each of the wire intersections of the infill and hammering the staples into the post. Once you have securely attached the infill material to the first post, unroll the fencing wire to span the space between the first and second posts, plus a couple more feet.
Holding the stretching tool vertically, position it near the vertical center of the infill material. Hook the stretching tool onto a vertical wire, 12 inches or so beyond the second post. Pull the stretching tool with both hands to stretch the infill material between the posts. While applying tension on the infill wire, your assistant will attach the wire fencing material to the second post.
Repeat to stretch and attach the wire fencing material to consecutive fence posts.
2.How to Install Wire Welded Fencing on a Slope?
Welded wire fencing comes in roll form, not in panels or sections. Installing roll fencing on a slope is more labor-intensive than on flat ground because you cut each section between poles instead of fencing an entire side at once so the fence follows the ground slope. This technique of fencing is called stair stepping.
Dig holes with an auger or post hole diggers to accommodate the landscape timbers for vertical fence posts at the corners. Measure the depth of each hole and make each exactly the same depth. This will automatically place the poles so they follow the slope of the ground. Prepare ready-mix concrete according to the package directions, place corner posts in holes and fill with concrete. Tie a string to the center of each corner post for each side and line up the line post holes. Dig the line post holes the same depth and install each in the same manner as the corner posts. Let the ready -mix concrete dry for 24 hours.
Screw two-by-four or two-by-six lumber on the fence posts at the bottoms following the slope of the land. Place the rails one inch from the bottom of each post above the ground. Screw them in place with a drill using at least two screws per post. Follow the same method to install the top rails by measuring an equal distance for each from the bottom rails. Your measurements should consider that the top of the welded wire will be in the middle of both the top and bottom rails for attaching them.
Unroll a section of the welded wire and cut it with wire cutters or bolt cutters along each horizontal section next to a vertical line of the squares. Leaving the vertical line will add strength for the staples to attach it to the posts. Cut the first piece so that it will staple to the beginning edge of one corner post and the other side so that it centers on the next pole. Use a staple gun and staple the fencing to the top rail, bottom rail and onto each post with one staple tooth on each side of the vertical wire. Measure and cut the next section of welded wire so that the ends will center on the post centers on each side of that section. Staple each section to the line poles in the same manner.
Placing poles the same distance apart from each other as the length of your lumber for rails will result in not having to cut the rails to fit and saves time when installing a welded wire fence. You may build a welded wire fence by using T-posts instead of landscaping timbers. Pound each post into the ground with the same amount of post protruding above the ground so that it follows the slope of the ground. Welded wire fences attach to T-posts with wire clips and no not require top or bottom rails. In this style of fence, you will overlap the cut sections of fences between poles and then attach through both pieces of fencing onto the T-posts with wire clips.
3.How to Make a Gate With 3-Foot Wire Fencing?
Fences constructed of welded wire mesh are inexpensive and effective barriers for containing your pets and protecting your garden. Building a wire mesh gate to complete the fence is a straightforward project that can be completed in a couple of hours. The gate has two essential components: a rectangular wooden frame and wire mesh infill. The frame is constructed with mitered corners for long-lasting stability. Once the corners are braced, the wire mesh is simply stretched over the frame and stapled in place. No special tools or advanced knowledge of carpentry are needed to complete this project.
Measure and note the distance between the gateposts. Subtract 1 inch from that distance to calculate the width of the gate and length of the rails of the gate frame. Decide the height of the gate. For continuity in appearance, the gate is typically built to the same height as the fence. Subtract 2 inches from the height of the gate to determine the length of the stiles. This will provide clearance at the bottom of the gate, making it easier to open and close.
Set the chop saw to make 45-degree cuts. Place a 2-by-4-inch plank on the saw table, with the 4-inch-wide surface horizontal and securely held against the guide fence. Trim the end of the plank to make a mitered cut. Remove the plank. Measure and mark the length of the rail on the longest side of the plank. Cut the plank at 45 degrees so the cut ends are convergent, not parallel. Measure, mark and cut the second rail, identical to the first. Measure, mark and cut two planks to the length of the stiles.
Divide the length of the shortest framing member by two. This dimension will be the length of the longest side of the diagonal braces for your frame. Place a 1-by-4-inch plank on the saw table, with the 4-inch-wide surface horizontal and securely held against the guide fence. Trim the end of the plank to make a mitered cut. Remove the plank. Measure and mark the length of the brace on the longest side of the plank. Cut the plank at 45 degrees so the cut ends are convergent. Repeat to measure, mark and cut four braces.
Arrange the gate frame like a rectangular picture frame on a flat surface, with the rails and stiles meeting to create mitered corners. Position a corner brace so it is centered on the outside of one mitered corner. Use a drill and driver bit to screw the brace to the ends of the rail and stile, securing the mitered joint. Repeat to join the other three corners.
Position the wooden braces across the corners of the frame, aligning the cut edges of the braces with the edges of the frame. Use a carpenter's square to square the first corner. Screw the wooden brace to the frame with three evenly spaced wood screws in each rail and stile. Repeat to square and brace the other three corners. Turn the frame over.
Cut a piece of welded wire mesh with wire cutters so it is larger than the frame. Drape the mesh over the frame. Arrange the mesh so that wire intersections are positioned over the framing members. Attach the wire mesh to one rail by positioning a poultry staple diagonally across each wire intersection and hammering it into the frame. Once the mesh is securely affixed to the first rail, ask an assistant to grasp and stretch the wire mesh across the frame. Affix the stretched wire mesh to the opposite rail. Securely attach the wire mesh to the stiles.
Trim excess wire mesh from the outside of the frame, using a wire cutter. Use needle-nose pliers to curl the ends of the wires so sharp ends are not exposed.
4. How to build Metal Fences?
The foundation of a metal fence are the posts that anchors it. There are three types of posts used in building a metal fence. They are the line post, the corner post and the brace post. The line post is used along the length of a fence. The corner post is used at a corner or turn in the fence. The brace post is used on either side of the corner to brace the corner. Setting the posts is the first step in building a metal fence.
Pounding Metal Posts
Although digging post holes and lodging posts into the ground with cement is the standard way of placing wood posts, metal fences don't necessarily need this level of attention. Once a perimeter has been established and the placement of posts (span) has been decided upon and marked, posts are driven deeply into the ground with a post driver. Drivers fit over the top of the post and allow the builder to pound the post into the ground with a sledge hammer. A wrought-iron fence will need further anchoring using cement because of the weight it will be holding.
Metal Fence Materials
Metal fences come in a variety of styles---chain link, wire mesh (wire netting), barbed wire, hog-wire, perforated metal, metal pipe, metal panels, welded wire. Posts come in various styles---t-bar, u-shaped, y-shaped, diameters, squares. When matching posts to fencing materials, the reason for building the fence must be taken into consideration as well as the ability to attach the spanning material to the post. Posting systems will have the ability to lock the fencing material to the post through clipping, linking or tying. Look for fencing that includes tension-making crimps in the woven mesh. It is possible to overstretch wire in an attempt to get the right tension. Crimps are there to fix this sort of problem. Use a pair of fencing pliers to twist and tighten the crimps.
More Building Information
While chain link fences are fairly sturdy, wire mesh and woven wire fences are not meant to be climbed on or overly abused but simply to mark a perimeter and keep animals in or out of a property. The weight of the mesh can cause sagging over time. Using a heavier gauge of wire means the fence will hold up longer with less sagging. The larger the gauge number, the smaller the diameter of the wire. Rocky locations may not be the ideal place to build metal fences due to the need to drive in fence posts. Repositioning the post or finding an angle that allows it to be worked around a rocky spot in the soil might be necessary.
5.How to Put Up a Wire Mesh Fence?
Wire Mesh Fence have been used for centuries to keep livestock in place, but they can be used for many purposes. Essentially wire fencing is a grid of heavy-gauge wire, approximately 4 feet tall and as long as is required to cover a specific area. It may seem difficult to put up a wire fence because if it's not properly tensioned, the fence will sag. However, the process is actually very straightforward.
Map out your fence. Walk the perimeter of where you want the fence to be and mark the ground with the spray paint at each location you want to place a post (normally around 8- to 10-foot intervals).
Use the post hole diggers to dig holes 3 feet deep and 2 feet wide at each of the locations you marked. Drop a wooden fence post into each hole and then fill around it with extra soil. Allow the posts to settle overnight.
Stretch the wire fencing in one long strip all the way around the fence posts. Tie the ends of the fence off to each respective side of the fence by wrapping the wire around the end fence posts and using the pliers to bend the wire together.
Go to the middle of the fence and start on the top wire. Attach the wire gripper and then attach the come along to the gripper. Begin tightening the come along to stretch the wire. When the factory-made kinks straighten out a bit in the wire, it has been tensioned enough. Attach the swage sleeves with the pliers and move on to the next lower wire strand. Follow this procedure until all of the horizontal wires have been tensioned. Drive staples into each post to hold the fence up and secure it along the length of its run.
Don't drive the staples in all the way. Their only purpose is to support the fence as it expands and contracts during temperature changes.
6.Welded Wire Fence Panels Types
Welded wire mesh fence panels, while practical, can also be ornamental.Welded wire fences are comprised of panels which are typically in a mesh configuration designed to keep livestock contained. Use hog panels, for example, to keep your pigs in their home or the deer out of your orchard. Some wire-mesh fencing is particularly ornate; install it to contain pets and prevent undesirable intruders while enhancing the beauty of your yard.
Livestock Fence Panels
Farm and ranch supply stores sell welded wire panel fencing designed for type-specific livestock habitat. These panels may be steel or galvanized and are characterized by the size and configuration of the holes in the mesh. Horse panels have square holes from top to bottom and have the most open grid. Cattle panels look like horse panels but have a smaller grid size. Hog panel grid work is oblong at the bottom where the horizontal wires are close together and becomes square at the top where the crosswires are further apart. A number of fencing companies will build and weld custom fence panels for such exotic applications as farming ostrich or running a wildlife rehabilitation facility.
Decorative Fence Panels
Livestock fence panels can be painted with metal paint and mounted between any type or style of fence poles to create do-it-yourself ornamental fencing. If your architectural style is modernistic, source and install silver-toned "architectural" wire mesh welded fence panels; use these for property boundary delineation or even indoors as a design accent. For garden elegance, purchase fence panels that use various gauges of wire to create scrollwork frames for mesh panels, or invest in the contemporary industrial aesthetic of heavy gauge vertical wire panels or the geometric elegance of double loop or roll top wire mesh panels. Many of these ornamental fence panels provide security as well: they may be impossible to climb, keep dogs and other pets contained safely, and prevent skunks and other wildlife from entering the enclosed space.
Portable Fence Panels
From pet cages and dog kennels to complete stock yards, portable welded wire panels are designed for quick setup and ease of portability. If you need to keep people out of a private outdoor function use panels that have the added security feature of a tilted, anti-climb top panel. If you host or attend pet shows or animal trials, source pet containment systems that accommodate large and small animals in appropriated spaces and come with fitted plastic canvas weather and shade covers.